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Qui
Nhon is the little visited provincial capital of
Binh Dinh province. Although it was recognised
as a city as late as 1898, its history reaches
back to the days of the Kingdom of Champa. In
the 11th century, the Cham people migrated
southwards and moved their capital city to a
location about 30km north of present-day Qui
Nhon and named it Vijaya. It survived until
1471, when the citadel was sacked by the
Vietnamese.
The
nearby city of An Nhon (formerly Binh Dinh) was
an old Annamese capital.
On
both the railroad and coastal highway, it became
an important naval and military base during the
Vietnam War. The small fishing port was dredged
and expanded by the United States military in
1965. Its strategic role led to heavy fighting
in the surrounding area.
Today, Qui Nhon is an expanding port city with a
population of about a quarter of a million.
until recently, it has been isolated from the
main tourism routes roughly half-way between
Danang and Nha Trang. However, air links to
Danang and Ho Chi Minh City has made it more
accessible, and a recently-built international
hotel offers the possibility of a relaxing break
well away from the more travelled path.
The ancient Cham Pa legacy
Little remains of Vijaya. It became the capital
of the short-lived Tay Son Kingdom in the 18th
century and abandoned thereafter. Now only a few
walls and a single tower remain standing.
There are fourteen Cham towers and monuments in
varying stages of decay around Binh Dinh
province, but the most convenient are a mere two
kilometres from Qui Nhon city centre. The Thap
Doi Cham Towers are surrounded by buildings,
which diminished their impact somewhat, but they
are good examples of Cham craftsmanship.
Further away, there are two notable sites. The
four remaining towers of the Banh It group are
on a hill just outside Binh Dinh town, about
25km inland from Qui Nhon. The 22m-high main
tower has been restored, with plenty of
replacement brickwork in evidence. The
neighboring tower has also been tidied up, but
has been left in a rougher state. Several fine
bas-reliefs of dancers from Banh It are
displayed in the Cham Museum in Danang.
Around 50km from Qui Nhon, the three Thap Nga
(Ivory) Cham Towers are regarded as one of the
best Cham tower complexes in Vietnam. The
central building is 24m high, and embellished
with granite ornamentation representing Naga and
Elephants. The others are both 22m high.
The Quang Trung Museum
Nguyen Hue, a national hero of the 18th century,
was one of three brothers who led the Tay Son
Insurrection. In 1788, he led a peasant army
northwards from Phu Xuan (Hue) to Thang Long
(Hanoi) where they defeated the occupying
Chinese forces and liberated the royal capital.
Nguyen Hue declared himself Emperor Quang Trung,
but his dynasty lasted only fourteen years
before his forces were crushed by the Nguyen
Lords.
Despite the brevity of his reign, he is regarded
with great affection in Vietnam, hence the
museum created in his memory. It’s located in
Kien My village in Tay Son District, 45km from
Qui Nhon,
The Long Khanh Pagoda
Quin Nhon City is short of attractions, but the
Long Khanh pagoda is worth a visit. The 17m high
Buddha is impressive, as is the ‘thousand-eyed
and thousand handed’ Goddess of Mercy.
The Leper Hospital
Normally, this wouldn’t feature as a place to
visit. However, this one is different. Instead
of the usual depressing institution, Qui Nhon’s
Leper Hospital is a model of good practice.
Patients live with their family in comfortable
chalets in well maintained gardens, and work on
handicrafts. Visitors are always welcomed, and
most find it an uplifting experience.
The Beach!
Qui Nhon’s beach is quite small, but OK.
However, Qui Hoa beach is about eight kilometers
away and much better. By coincidence, you get
there through the grounds of the Leper Hospital.
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